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The Apple TV+ series ‘Chief of War’, starring Jason Momoa, has been praised for its stunning and authentic portrayal of 18th-century Hawaii. The costumes are not merely for show; they are a fundamental part of the storytelling, designed to visually communicate rank, heritage, and authority. For anyone looking to understand or capture the look of a true leader as depicted in the series, the key lies in appreciating the meticulous balance between historical accuracy and narrative necessity.
The Foundation: Meticulous Research and Cultural Respect
The journey to authenticity for the Chief of War costumes team, led by designer Caroline Eselin, began with deep and respectful research. The team committed to a profound responsibility to portray Hawaiian culture as truthfully as possible.
Their process was built on several key pillars:
- Academic and Historical Sources: The team used Sir Peter H. Buck’s “Arts and Crafts of Hawaii” as their “bible,” providing a foundational understanding of traditional craftsmanship.
- Collaboration with Cultural Experts: They worked closely with cultural advisors, including experts from Honolulu’s Bishop Museum, to ensure every detail was culturally accurate and respectful.
- Hands-On Fieldwork: The team immersed themselves in Hawaiian culture through visits to museums and cultural festivals to understand the context and significance of the garments.
This rigorous approach ensured that the costumes were not just clothes, but authentic representations of Hawaiian history and identity.
Key Elements of a Leader’s Attire
The costumes of high-ranking chiefs in ‘Chief of War’ are defined by specific, significant elements that signify their status. The table below breaks down these key components:
| Garment | Description | Significance & Production Insight |
|---|---|---|
| Malo | A traditional loincloth made of barkcloth. | The everyday garment for 18th-century Hawaiian men. Its presence grounds the characters in realism. |
| ‘Ahu ‘ula (Feather Cape) | A cloak made from thousands of tiny bird feathers attached to a netting. | A sacred symbol of rank and spiritual power. The show used pheasant feathers and modern techniques to recreate the immense, years-long traditional process. |
| Mahiole (Feather Helmet) | A helmet with a distinctive crescent shape, traditionally built on a woven frame. | Signified a warrior-chief. The production used 3D printing and molding to efficiently create durable versions for filming while maintaining the authentic look. |
Balancing Authenticity with Modern Production
Creating costumes for a major television series involves navigating the tradeoffs between historical precision and the practical demands of filmmaking. The ‘Chief of War’ team is a prime example of successfully managing this balance.
- The Challenge of Scale and Time: While a single historic feather cloak could take a generation to complete, the costume department needed to produce around 30 for the principal cast and stunt doubles in a fraction of the time.
- Modern Materials for Ancient Looks: To solve this, they used pre-feathered tapes and farmed out the work to multiple costume shops. For the helmets, they replaced traditional woven techniques with 3D-printed molds to ensure durability against rain and physical stunt work.
- Cultural Sensitivity in Representation: The costume team also faced the challenge of depicting traditional dress, such as the women’s pā’ū (skirt), which was often worn without a top. Understanding that this would be perceived differently by a modern audience, the designers made creative choices to maintain cultural integrity while adapting to contemporary viewing norms.
Ultimately, the goal was not to create a museum piece but to bring history to life in a way that is both respectful and compelling for a global audience. As actor Moses Goods noted, the aim was to “bring out the human part of who these [people] were,” using costume as a vital tool in that mission.
The Chief of War Costumes does more than create a visually stunning show; they are a powerful expression of cultural reclamation. By prioritizing deep research, expert collaboration, and innovative problem-solving, the designers succeeded in capturing the true look of leadership, allowing audiences to connect with Hawaiian history in a profound and authentic way.
